July Railfan trip to BNSF Needles Sub, near Ludlow and Ash Hill

I've been called many names during the course of my life, many of which I can't print on this web site. I've also done quite a few dumb things, such as camping in Death Valley National Park in July, 1995, when the daytime high temperature was 114 degrees. I guess I just can't learn, as when I got off work at 0800 on Friday, July 11, 2003, it was time to do a bit of railfanning on BNSF's busy Needles Subdivision, in the hard-core Mojave Desert.

Why the Mojave Desert in July? Perhaps you read the article I wrote about my June, 2003 trip, and if you've read between the lines, you've probably deduced that I had a good time. Yes, I did, and I wanted more of it! When my wife announced that she was spending the weekend at her mother's place, railfanning BNSF's Needles sub seemed like a good thing to do.

Left: BNSF #4023, leads an eastbound container train at west Ludlow, with scenic Mojave desert mountains in the background. Right: At the same location, but a different angle, BNSF #4027 leads another eastbound container train towards Ludlow. Notice the difference in the lighting, as the right photo is more "mellow" due to the later time in the afternoon.

I won't bore you with the details of the trip from Sacramento to Ludlow; let's just say it's about a 9-hour drive, assuming you obey the speed limits, which I do. I had packed a minimal of camping gear with me, and no cold weather gear, as the weather service said the daytime highs would be 110+ and the early morning lows should reach the low 80's. I didn't even bring a sleeping bag, as sleeping in a sleeping bag in those temperatures would roast you, so a foam pad and a mattress was all that was necessary. I decided to eat simply, so my food consisted simply of canned food, to be eaten directly out of the can. At temperatures over 110+, who needs hot food? Naturally, I brought lots of water and an ice chest full of ice, beer and soft drinks.

After I left work in Sacramento, I didn't stop until I reached Barstow, which is nearly a six-hour drive. Barstow was a mandatory stop to purchase gas, ice and beer. Beer? You bet, as Ludlow is dry and if you're heading east on Interstate 40, the last stop for hard stuff, beer or wine is Newberry Springs, about 25 miles east of Barstow. It was hot in Barstow, but by the time I pulled off the interstate at Ludlow, it was sizzling. Believe me, at 1600 on an early July afternoon in Ludlow, you can expect sizzling temperatures! Editor's Note: When I got home from the trip, I checked the temperature for Ludlow and noted that the high was 111 degrees farenheit, and the low was 82 degrees, farenheit.

Left: I'm confused: Is this 2003 or 1973? ATSF #4227 leads a vintage lash-up hauling an empty spline train west, just west of Ludlow. Click on the image for a larger photo and more information about the sight of 30+ year old power in revenue service, well, sort of. BN #2830, a GP-30 from the early 1960's, a breed of locomotive that I thought was extinct, like the Dodo bird, is on the trailing end of the vintage lashup.

I took the dirt road towards the west end of Ludlow, which in my opinion, is the most photographic spot on the entire Needles subdivision. There is a low hill, and if you have a four-wheel drive vehicle, a little bit of four-wheeling skill and a small amount of guts, you can drive up a short, steep, and sandy four-wheel-drive trail to the top of the hill, which affords an outstanding view of eastbound and westbound traffic. Yes, this hill is on the east side of the tracks, so late-afternoon trains will be shaded, but the "nose" will always be well-lighted, which will make the shot. You can drive to the other side of the tracks, by taking a 4WD access under a trestle and through a dry wash, 300 meters or so to the west, but then you have to do a but of hill-climbing and in the 100+ heat, well, I elected to take the easy route and drive up the short 4WD trail and park on the hill on the east side of the tracks.

After a couple of eastbound container trains, I was rewarded with a "blast from the past." How often do you see 1960's vintage power on one of the busiest main lines in the country? I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw this lash-up! I had to get out an old Diesel Spotter's Guide to identify the G.E.; as it had been many, many years since I'd seen one on the main line. Take a look at the following units:

* AT&SF #4227 GE B23-7, unknown built-date, but mid-1960's vintage

* AT&SF #2614 EMD GP-35, built in 1964

* BN #2830 EMD GP-30, built in 1962

I just have to assume that these aren't in regular service, as they were pulling an empty spline train, but to see units 40 years old on one of the busiest double-tracked mainlines in North America in 2003 is unusual, at best. BNSF's Needles Subdivision offers many surprises, so bring your camera, you notebook and enjoy whatever comes your way!

Left: The sun sets at my camp, near M.P. 634.9, west of the tracks. Right: A spectacular Mojave Desert sunrise, with a low temperature recorded at 84 degrees.

After you see a colorful lash-up of nearly 40-year old power, on one of the busiest main lines in North America, what do you do for an encore? You stick around and photograph more mundane, run-of-the-mill stuff, and then find a place to camp. I drove under the bridge at M.P. 634.9, which took me under the tracks through a dry wash, and camped at my favorite spot, near the base of a hill, on the west side of the tracks. The spot I picked out is always secluded, and if you're not in the mood for company, it's a nice place to camp. In the upper 90-degree temperature after sundown, a campfire was not at all necessary for warmth, but the cheery glow would have been welcome. I hadn't bothered to collect wood during the day's railfanning, and I was tired after working all night, driving all day, and railfanning most of the afternoon. So after few beers, a cold dinner of canned corned beef hash and green beans, and a stogie, it was time to crawl into the back seat of the truck and get some well-needed sleep. Oh yes, at 2200, the temperature read a comfy 95 degrees.

I woke up early, before sunrise, on Saturday, July 12, 2003, to check my thermometer, which read 84 degrees at 0530. After a sunset shot, it was time for breakfast. Today's breakfast menu consisted of a can of Vienna sausages, a can of peaches, and a few flour tortillas. Then, it was time to change locations and move to another of my favorite spots on the Needles Subdivision, fabulous Ash Hill, just a few miles east of Ludlow.

Ash Hill, at around 2000 feet in elevation, is quite a hill to climb! It's the second highest and steepest, only surpassed by Goffs Hill, at elevation 2599', located miles to the east not far from Needles. The westbound climb is the hardest, which I've heard accounts ranging from 1.55% to 1.88%, depending what you read. The eastbound climb is a steady 5 mile grade from Ludlow, with a ruling grade of 1.5%. Now, that doesn't sound very steep but consider this: Steel wheels on steel rails with lots of tonnage. That makes for an interesting climb, under any circumstances. Combine the stark desert scenery, a long, steep, brutal climb and an average of 80 to 90 trains a day, that makes Ash Hill an excellent place to watch trains.

Left: BNSF #4425 leads a westbound container train, under the signal bridge at East Ash Hill. Right: Later in the day, BNSF #4168 eastbound, crests the ruling 1.5% grade at the top of Ash Hill. From this photo, you can see the crest of the grade is reached, just behind the trailing unit.

Ash Hill is easy to get to. Just turn off the Interstate at Ludlow and head west. At the stoplight, turn left, or, geographically south onto Historic Route 66. Before leaving Ludlow, you'll pass many historic building left over from the glory days of Route 66, including the old Route 66 cafe, long vacant, except for a colony of pigeons that has taken up residence in the old structure. Just follow old Route 66 east. After crossing the tracks, take the second dirt road that heads off to your left (east) and after a drive on the dirt of about 1/2 mile, you'll be at the summit of Ash Hill. Yes, you can take a passenger car on this dirt road in dry weather, but you'd feel a whole lot more conferrable if you had a S.U.V. or at least, a 2-WHD pickup truck. Since you're only a few miles from the interstate, your cell phone should work just fine.

On a Saturday in July, the weather will be HOT! I mean, HOT! Bring lots of water. I was only planning on spending two days in the area, yet I brought 10 gallons of water, which was much more than needed. Five gallons would have been great, and I could have squeaked-by with 2-1/2 gallons. However, you never know what will happen, so I wanted lots of extra, and I really like the luxury of taking a solar shower after a hard day of railfanning. You need to realize that you are in a hash, unforgiving wilderness, with absolutely no chance of finding water, so be prepared.

Left: Another "crest-of-the-grade" photo, as BNSF #5429 leads an eastbound auto train at the summit of Ash Hill, which the crest of the grade can be plainly seen in the photo. Right: BNSF #4772 leads a westbound container train at East Ash Hill.

The weather was hot, but so was the action. During the course of the day, I probably counted 50 or so trains, and only photographed a few of them, and only published a few of the photos. When you visit the Needles Subdivision, you'll be rewarded with a parade of trains. When you change locations, you'll probably miss a train, but you don't need to worry, as you'll be able to photograph another train within a few minutes. If you climb a hill that affords views in both directions of the tracks for several miles, it's not uncommon to see several east and westbound trains at the same time. Truly, big-time, mainline railroading at its best!

Left: BNSF #4576 leads yet another westbound double-stack container train up the steep grade at Ash Hill summit. If you miss a train, it's not a problem, as another one will soon follow. Right: Not the greatest photo, but vintage Santa Fe #6710, in her original blue/yellow livery, leads a westbound BNSF container train at East Ash Hill. It is very rare, in 2003, to see a 1970's vintage Santa Fe SD-40, in the original paint, lead a container train on BNSF's Needles Sub.

After a night of camping out near Ash Hill, alas, it was time to head back to Roseville. If you like hot weather, and hot action, I'd recommend a trip to Ludlow in the summer to experience BNSF. You'll see more big-time railroad action then you can ever imagine.

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