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Honky-tonks, strip clubs, prostitutes, hookers, transvestites, lots of small restaurants and street food vendors, unlimited shopping, entertainment, people watching, hotels, and ... excitement?  Tijuana's famous Zona Norte is all of the aforementioned words and more...  It's hard to define and actually put into words, illustrated by a few clandestine photos, in a zone where photography isn't allowed.  That's the Zona Norte and more...

Photo:  Various tourist accounts describing Zona Norte say all goes downhill when you reach the Tijuana Arch, and I guess that's true, as this photo is taken from the base of the arch, looking north, into the Zona Norte.  The border fence and the U.S. can be seen in the background of the photo.

I've been visiting Tijuana, and "The Zone" since 1970, but unfortunately I only started documenting my travels a few years ago, specifically for this web site and a book or two that I plan to write about Tijuana street food vendors, complete with recipes.  I've seen a lot of changes in "The Zone," mostly for the better, as the safety has increased ten-fold since my earliest visits, due to a very visible police presence and the elimination of "la mortida," the famous bribe to dirty cops.  In 2006, the City of Tijuana doubled the pay of the municipal police officers, so the bribe has largely disappeared.

Photo:  This gentleman seems to be nursing a hangover, as he relaxes at the base of the Tijuana Arch, at the corner of Articulo 12 and Av. Revolución, at the extreme southern end of the Zona Norte.  Maybe he spent too much time at Adelita's?

Photo:  This gentleman seems to make his first impressions, and his dating intentions quite clear, as he talks to a street vendor buddy at the base of the Tijuana arch.  Give the guy credit, at least he's honest!

If you're reading this article, than you are no doubt aware that most visitors are attracted to La Zona Norte because of legal prostitution. Tijuana's Zona Norte is the largest area in North America where legal prostitution exists.  Yes, prostitution is very legal in "The Zone" and prostitutes are everywhere on the streets and in the honky tonks and bars.  I read somewhere that there are about 7,000 prostitutes in Tijuana, and I can believe it, as they're everywhere on the streets in "The Zone" and in the dozens of honky-tonk bars that populate the area.  Zona Norte gets its name from the fact that it's located just north of downtown Tijuana, yet only a few blocks of the international border with the United States.  Zona Norte is defined on the east by Av. Revolución, to the west by Av. Niños Heros, south by Articulo 123, a.k.a. Calle Premiera, and to the north loosely by Av. Baja California, as there limited activity north of Calle Coahulia.  The hub of action in "The Zone" is Callejón Coahulia, known as "The Alley," where street girls abound, and the most noted clubs, such as Adelitas and Chicago Club are located; however there are many other famous bars in La Zona Norte, such as Hong Kong, Tropical, Pussy Cats and Miami.

Photo:  Looking west on Articulo 123, just west of Av. Revolución.  If you look closely, you'll notice that most of the buildings on the right side of the street are hotels, or have hotels on the upper stories.  Most rooms rent by the hour, but overnight accommodations can be arranged.

Photo:  Looking west on Articulo 123, at the corner of Av. Constitución gives you a pretty good idea of the street scene in the Zona Norte.  Look closely at the Bar Turino, and you'll see a hooker or two... they like to frequent the bank of pay phones.

Prostitution not only tolerated in "The Zone," it's big business, as it attracts sex tourists from all over the world. Hookers, both bar and street girls, are required to have monthly check-ups, and must carry a health card that shows their last check-up.  Note:  If you're picking up a girl and you want to see if she's "fresh," she's required to show you her card when you ask to see it.  Working girls are also to stay a certain distance from day care centers and schools, and must keep a rough log of the hours they work, if they're asked by a health worker or a police officer.  I doubt many of them comply with this regulation, but from my personal experiences, I've found that all of them carry health cards.

Photo:  Just west of the location of the previous photo, I take photos of the street scene along Articulo 123.  Most of the photos taken in this chapter are illegal, and quite risky on the part of the photographer... ME!

Don't even think about child prostitution, as it's not only highly illegal but it's virtually non-existent, and if you are caught, you'll be facing many unpleasant years in a state prison.  Donkey shows are a myth that's somehow survived the test of time, as there aren't any, and there never have been any.  The only donkeys that you'll see in Tijuana are the faux-zebra donkeys on Av. Revolución, in the tourist-oriented Zona Central.  Don't take your guns to town, son, as guns are illegal in Mexico, and even a single cartridge will land you time in prison.

Photo:  Looking north on Av. Constitución, as the street heads downhill towards "The Alley."  Photo taken April 15, 2005, before I knew it was illegal to take photos in Zona Norte; it's good the municipal cop had his head down when I snapped the shutter.

Do you need a knowledge of the Spanish language to enjoy "The Zone?"  Well, yes, and no...  Spanish is the language of Mexico, and outside of the Av. Revolución tourist zone, few people speak Spanish.  An exception to the rule is the employees of the major bars such as Adelitas, Hong Kong or Chicago Club.  You can get by if you don't understand a word of Spanish, but the more you know, the more enjoyable your visit will be.  The locals will be delighted if you attempt to talk to them in their language, even if you butcher it.  I've made a few blunders and I've always been corrected by a local, without prejudice of malice.  Many of the club girls speak some English, but if you're a fan of street girls, you'll need to speak at least a little Spanish, as I've encountered only a few girls that know even a few words of English.  However a few pidgin Spanish phrases such as "suckie, fuckie and sexo" will get you in the door.  To sum it up, since few Zone locals speak English, the more Spanish you know, the more fun you'll have.

The girls will let you know they're in business when you walk by them, as they'll make eye contact and smile, and most will do the tsssssk-tssssssk routine.  The more aggressive girls will tug at your sleeve and try to detain you; I've even had a few of them grab my hand and put it on their crotch or their boobs.  That's the time when you can pat them on the butt, free of charge...

Photo:  These working girls are standing outside Bar Turino, at the northwest corner of Articulo 123 and Av. Constitución, waiting for customers.  Now if I was single, and a few years younger, the gal in the white skirt has the assets that I admire.

Police are everywhere in "The Zone," mostly attempting to ferret out illegal drugs.  Unfortunately, the border areas of Mexico are a hotbed for illegal drugs and Tijuana is no exception.  Just "say no" to drugs if you're approached by a friendly local who offers to sell you drugs.  He could be an undercover agent or working in-cahoots with the authorities.  DON'T DO DRUGS, PERIOD!  I'm not kidding, as I've been approached on several occasions by a grinning local offering drugs for sale.  I just politely say "No, pero gracias," and move on as fast as I can.

Photo:  Looking west on Callejón Coahulia, a.k.a., "The Alley," which is the center of prostitution in Zona Norte. Most of the women in the photo are hookers.  This was a very risky and illegal photo to take.  Don't do it!

Photo:  Looking west on Callejón Coahulia, with Av. Constitución in the background, just past the yellow inflatable beer bottle.  Note the hookers to the right of the photo; all women in this photo are streetwalkers!

Getting to "The Zone" is easy; if you're walking, after you cross the border you just follow the signs, and your fellow pedestrians and head for the landmark Tijuana arch, which is located at the corner of Av. Revolución and Articulo 123.  You'll see the famous Hotel Nelson, located on the southwest corner, where they feature comfortable outdoor dining and great Margaritas.  You cross Revolución and stay on the north side of Articulo 123, and you're there.  If you're on the fast track for Adelita's, "La Zona" is quite literally, downhill, as you head north, towards the border, on Av. Revolución, walk a couple of short blocks, and you're there.  If you'd like to read more about crossing the border, check out the Border Crossing article elsewhere on my Tijuana page.  If you prefer to take a taxi, you'll find dozens of them after you leave the border turnstile, and find yourself at busy Av. De La Amistad.

Photo:  Every woman in this photo is a hooker, but the municipal cop doesn't care, nor does he even notice.  Photo taken looking north on Av. Constitución, just north of Articulo 123.  The restaurant, Kentucky Fried Buches, serves chicken neck tacos, and is a great place to eat.  Click on the link for my review of the restaurant.

Photo:  Another shot at the corner of Articulo 123 and Av. Constitución, shows a down-on-her-luck hooker looking quite melancholy as she attempts to cross the street.

I can't recommend that you drive your personal car to "The Zone," as the street infrastructure is 50 years behind the U.S., parking is scare, and the traffic is horrendous.  I am accustomed to getting around Tijuana by walking, taking a taxi, or being brave and riding a city bus.  The only time I ever drive in Tijuana is early in the morning, when I'm taking to "fast road" to Ensenada and points south.

Photo:  Here's what it looks like in front of one of the many bars along Callejón Coahulia, as streetwalkers hang out, looking for customers, a hustler sits on a stool in front of his bar, and potential customers walk the street. Me? I'm the guy with the camera, taking risky photos!

Besides the chicas, Zona Norte offers fine dining, and some of the best people watching that I've ever seen.  Zona Norte isn't just about hotels, honky-tonk bars, transvestites and street hookers as the area is home to thousands of real people, who live in real houses, and own and operate real small business.  Zona Norte has a lot to offer, and is a fascinating place to visit.


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