Viva Tijuana, walk from Av. Amistad to Av. Revolucion, in downtown Tijuana

So now you've just opened another ugly, steel turnstile, and you're standing at the corner of Av. De la Amistad and Av. Jose M. Larroque at the northern edge of Tijuana and you're suddenly confronted with an unbelievable scene: Beggars, puestos (push-cart vendors, in plain English,) taxis, traffic and people pushing, shoving and gesturing. What's this all about? Relax dude, you're in Mexico!

Left: Plaza Viva Tijuana, at the beginning to the walk to Av. Revolucion. Right: If you're hungry, there are many street vendors to choose from. Personally, I like corn cooked Tijuana-style.

It never ceases to amaze me that, after walking that 100 or so yards south of the border and pushing open that second revolving steel gate, how a different world will unfold. I've read that in the entire world that no two countries are closer, yet farther apart, than the U.S. and Mexico. Tijuana may be a border town, but when you cross the line, you are going from one planet to another. As soon as you step across the line, your whole world changes. Perhaps that's part of the allure of Tijuana for me, and the 25-million-something other Americans who cross the border every year.

The first thing that hits you about Tijuana is the smell of the sewage that emanates from the drains immediately as you cross the border. The city is attempting to upgrade it's infrastructure, but, like all worthwhile projects, it takes time and money, commodities that most of us are short upon. As you walk through the "corredor turistico" nothing seems to change. However, when you push that steel gate open, at the corner of Av. De la Amistad and Av. Jose M. Larroque, a whole new world opens for you, simply said: MEXICO.

Left: This guy sells all kinds of souvenirs and he specializes in clothing apparrel, at Plaza Viva Tijuana. Right: Plaza Viva Tijuana, looking north toward the U.S.

Dorothy, you're not in Kansas anymore. You see the taxis, the street vendors and, sadly, the beggars. Although you can look over your right shoulder and see the ugly steel fence that the U.S. government has erected to separate the U.S. from Mexico, only 100 yards away, you are worlds, away from Los Estados Unidos. The tourist brochures say that you can get around the tourist section of Tijuana if you don't speak Spanish, and yes, you can. Just barely. Sure, you can almost always find someone that speaks English, but I leave my English at the border, as you're now in Mexico.

So now you're at the intersection of Av. Amistad and Av. Larroque and you're wondering why you didn't take one of those tourist charter busses that will bus you to Av. Revolucion so you can shop-til-you-drop and why you wanted to walk to downtown TJ in the first place? OK, all you have to do is to cross the street, which is Av. Amistadad, and turn to your left and walk a short block. You can't miss the huge McDonald's restaurant and after you pass it, immediately turn to your right, and you'll find yourself at facing a very broad pedestrian mall, lined with shops, very clean and sanitary; you have arrived at the mall, known as "Viva Tijuana."

Left: My first time smoking a genuine Cuban cigar. It was not a pleasant experience. Right: Looking north at Plaza Viva Tijuana; the green hills in the background are in the U.S.

If you're a shopper, you need not foray into Mexico any further, as this place has it all. I couldn't resist the urge to stop at a cigar store and purchase a Cuban cigar, forbidden in the U.S., and smoke it on the spot. Actually, I found it discussing; I prefer my Swisher Sweets when I'm around a campfire. The place is also lined with many bars and restaurants, which offer dollar beers if you're there before prime time.

The "Viva Tijuana" is three blocks of concrete-lined, clinical-clean, Mexico. But the real emphasis is walking to Av. Revolucion. OK, here's what you do: Walk to the end of "Viva Tijuana" mall. You'll seen a large blue sign that reads "Centro Downtown;" that's the way to downtown Tijuana. However if you take this route, you will be confronted with lots of vendors, lining the walkway, some of whom want to get "in your face" to peddle their wares. I have sympathy for them as they're just trying to earn an honest living, but I'm good at saying a polite "No, pero gracias" and moving on. If you want to avoid most of the vendors, take the stairs to the right, but be aware that less than honorable types seem to frequent the stairs. There is a sign painted above the stairs that beckons you to Av. Revolucion and downtown Tijuana. It proclaims the walk is 5 minutes, but that's highly optimistic, as I'd say the walk would be about 15 minutes if you didn't stop and walked briskly. And yes, there are beggars.

To regress a bit, I spent a bit of time at an establishment known as "Happy Fish" chatting with the owner and doing a bit of people-watching, which is a primo sport in this part of the world. Since they were offering dollar beers and dollar fish tacos, how could I refuse? "Happy Fish" is highlighted in the food section of my Tijuana article.

Left: The entrance to the stairs that will lead you over the Tijuana River, and eventually to the tourist mecca of Av. Revolucion. Right: The cement-lined channel of the Tijuana River, with lots of homeless folks and debris in the channel. Be warned, stay away from the walkways that line the river!

So you've either climbed up the stairs, or walked up the ramp and fought off all of the vendors, with a polite "No gracias." Now what? Why, you cross the majestic Tijuana river! Actually, it's a cement-lined, polluted ditch. The city of Tijuana has been trying for years to clean up their act and overhaul their sanitation situation, but the problem is that TJ has been growing big-time and supply just can't keep up with the demand. The U.S. has been working with the Tijuana authorities to curb the pollution, and the situation is getting better, but I wouldn't stick my big toe into the Tijuana River. As you cross the walkway over the river, you'll note that it is paved-over in concrete, and there are many "homeless-types" wandering in the river channel below. Personally, I prefer to stay on the bridge high above, as I would fear to tread below. As you're crossing the bridge, you'll meet a local sans legs, who gets around on a skateboard. This guy sells chewing gum for a living. You have to admire him for tenacity.

Photos: As you cross the bridge over the Tijuana River, you have to negotiate many vendors. These folks are just trying to make an honest living, so I am always very polite with them.

As you're walking across the bridge, look to you left, upstream, and notice the tall buildings. That's the Zona Rio, the sophisticated part of Tijuana, which features office buildings, fine hotels, world-class restaurants, apartments and even an amusement park. I've never actually toured the Zona Rio, as the closest I've been to it is the Mercado Hidalgo, which is located east of busy Av. Sanchez Taboada and Calle 6. Next trip, I plan to thoroughly explore the Zona Rio.

Left: The "Artisans' Village," located on the south side of the bridge over the river. Right: Walking along Av. Puente Mexico, which is now a mall, complete with street vendors.

You cross the river, cross over the fast road leading to Playas de Tijuana and points south, and again walk down ramps, lined with vendors hawking their products. At the bottom of the ramp are several small restaurants that specialize in, what else, tacos! This side of the bridge is very different than the plaza side, because as soon as you leave the ramp, you enter a small, well-kept park that have very lush green grass, shade trees and benches. You'll also notice many vendors and small shops; this area is known as Artisans' Village.

Left: A member of a mariachi band carries his string bass past a taqueria. Right: Walking west on the mall of Av. Puente Mexico, keeping the famous Tijuana arch in sight.

You'll cross Av. Nogales, and begin a two-block walk up the hill, keeping the huge arch in sight. On my last visit to Tijuana, in April of 2005, I didn't even recognize this area, as it had been nearly 20 years since I'd last visited the area. What used to be Av. Puente Mexico, has been turned into a brick-paved mall, lined with shops and restaurants, that cater to tourists. There are also push-cart vendors selling food and souvenirs. Years ago, if I remember correctly, this used to be a sort of tent city of vendors, and very tacky and not particularly safe. Speaking of safety, the walk from the border to Av. Revolution is safe during the day, but not at night. But, I wouldn't want to walking a similar route in San Francisco, London or any other large city either. If you don't want to hike the remaining few blocks to Av. Revolucion, you can find just about anything in this area that a tourist could wish for.

Continuing your walk up the gentle hill toward the arch, you'll come to a fairly bush street that runs north and south, Av. Madero. On your left, you'll notice the brightly painted Tijuana Wax Museum, with posters advertising some of the many interesting figures contained within. I almost went inside, I think wax museums are neat, but I had other things on my mind, as the sights of downtown Tijuana were calling. Perhaps the wax museum will be part of a future visit. Anyway, the walk toward the arch is very pleasant and interesting, as there are many small shops, restaurants, souvenir stands to check out. Mariachi bands and solo artists walk the street and will serenade you for pocket change. It never ceases to amaze me how much Mexicans love brightly colored items, as colorful toys, blankets, statues and all sorts of locally-crafted goods abound. If you're into "street photography" or people-watching, this walk is for you.

Left: Walking along Av. Puente Mexico, near the famous Tijuana arch. Right: Your destination: Av. Revolucion, as seen looking south from Articulo 120, a.k.a., First Street. Note the huge Mexican flag in the background, flown over Plaza Bandera, about two miles to the south of this location.

The huge steel Tijuana arch is located one block further west, at the intersection of Articulo 123 (First Street) and Av. Revolucion. Near the base of the arch is a sort of small plaza, surrounded by souvenir stands, small shops, taquerias and a small bandstand.

You have reached the north end of Av. Revolucion, the tourist mecca of downtown Tijuana. Turn to your left, walk south on Av. Revolucion, and you have reached tourist nirvana. Bienvenidos al centro de Tijuana!

Web page design has been created by eRench Productions, Inc., custom photogrpahy for any occasion...