Karlita's fabulous mole, rice and tortillas in Gomez-Farias

When you spend a day in the small town of Gómez-Farías, located high in the Sierra Madre Oriental mountains, hiking around and observing a local celebration, it becomes apparent that this is hungry work, and after hours of hiking around town, and tossing down a few beers, it becomes apparent that your stomach will demand some attention. So after spending a couple very happy hours at Gabby's Bar, we decided to take the short three-block hike into town and find a place to eat. By the time we were ready to eat the local celebration and closed down, and all of the vendors had packed up and left. But we were in luck, as we came across Restaurant Karlita, which is located on a street, on the north side of the town square.

Left: If you didn't know it was there, you'd almost miss Restaurant Karlita, as the thatched palapa blends into the surroundings. Members of the Gómez family relax, and check out the activities on the town square. Pots containing molé, and rice are in the foreground of the photo.

Actually if you didn't know it was there, Restaurant Karlita could be easy to miss, as it is a thatched, open air palapa, and sort of blends in with the incredibly dense, green vegetation, that grows in the area. What attracted my attention the place was that I was wandering around taking photos of a couple of chickens that were pecking at something in the gutter, when a couple of small children noticed that I was taking photos, and as seems to be very common in Mexico, wanted their photos taken. Oh the joys of digital photography, as I was able the cheerfully oblige them. They also seemed to be amazed that I was a "gringo" and able to speak to them in their native language. So I got to talking to them, and then they pointed me to Restaurant Karlita, and told me that their parents ran the place. Jerry, Rodolfo and I were hungry and in search of food, so we needed no further urging to check out Karlita.

The children seemed delighted that I followed them to Karlita's and enthusiastically offered to give me the grand tour. Restaurant Karlita operates under a large, thatched palapa, and is open air, as there are no doors, windows, and the only solid wall was located to the rear of the structure. Next to the restaurant is the house where the whole family lives. The children were especially anxious to show me their prized possession, which was a green parrot, that was so tame that they could let it perch on their fingers. After admiring their parrot and snapping a few photos, I made my way to the restaurant so I could take a look at the operation.

Photos: I've seen cute kids in my travels, but these kids are perhaps the cutest and most lovable kids that I've ever had the privilege to photograph! How can't you help but to love them? As you can see, they were enthusiastic about having their picture taken. A couple of months after our visit to Karlitas, Jerry returned and gave the family prints of these, and other photos I took. The family loved it!

Restaurant Karlita is definitely a family affair, which is the usual in Mexico. What struck me unusual about Karlita was the sheer number of people present; it seemed there was everybody in the family sitting under the palapa, from grandmother to the small children. Everybody seemed to be doing something, either tending a fire, cutting up vegetables, stirring a pot of something, or just sitting in a chair relaxing. The restaurant has many folding rectangular tables, and each table was cluttered with pots, pans, napkins and all sort of other stuff. They had a couple of fires wood fires going, and over one of the fires a big stockpot full of molé was cooking. Oh boy! They we also cooking plain, white rice in a pot over another fire, and another fire that had a griddle that was heating up. When I asked what was going on the griddle, I was pointed to a smiling lady who was making corn tortillas by hand, the old fashioned way. There is absolutely nothing high-tech about Restaurant Karlita!

Left: These sweet little girls proudly display their pet parrot for my digital camera. Right: Inside of Restaurant Karlita is composed of open walls, a thatched roof, dirt floors, and lots of table with lots of pots and pans on top of them. Not to mention, most of the Gómez family member are present.

To no surprise, everybody was very friendly, and enthusiastic to answer my questions about their operation, and what they do. Rosa, who runs the place, proudly told me that their surname is Gómez, and they are direct descendents of the founder of the town of Gómez-Farías; well who was I do doubt a story such as that? Whatever the case, the restaurant is definitely a family affair, as there were at least a dozen people busily engaged in their chores. Outside of Jerry, Rodolfo and I, there were no other customers. I often wonder how these small family restaurants earn a profit, since there are so many of them, and I've rarely seen many customers.

Rosa served me a plate of molé, white rice, and a few corn tortillas. As she was dishing up my serving, she explained to me that molé recipe has been her family for 200 years, and has been passed down from generation to generation. One of the other ladies had fired up the griddle, and was cooking more tortillas, and Rosa mentioned that this place was an all-you-can-eat restaurant, so when I finished my plate, all I had to do was help myself to more. Well, I don't need any more of an invitation than that, as I have a voracious appetite for Mexican food, especially food cooked in a small, mom and pop operation.

Left: A family member dishes reaches into a large pot of molé, and dishes Jerry up a huge spoonful of molé, to round out his lunch. Right: My "snack" of their delicious molé, rice, and in-house made corn tortillas. Wow! What a delicious lunch!

I wasn't alone, as my buddies Rodolfo and Jerry were given same invitation. We ate and ate even more of their delicious mole, white rice and corn tortillas. Interestingly, you eat whatever they are cooking at the time, and you're served family-style. For an example, if you want a chicken taco, and they don't have chicken, you're out of luck. As in the custom with many small Mexican restaurants of this genre, there is no printed menu, or cash register, and you're served with whatever they have on hand. That format works for us!

Photo: Rosa Gómez, the matriarch of the family, lays out homemade corn tortillas, ready to be eaten with their fabulous molé that they make in-house. Rosa claims that the recipe is 200 years old, having passed from generation to generation. After sampling he delicious molé, there is no doubt in my mind that her story is true.

Now the real surprise: When it came time to pony up for la quanta, the Gómez family refused payment. Yes, you read that correct, as the delicious meal was free, nada, no charge! It seems that the family had observed Jerry and I talking to their children and taking a healthy interest in their children, and their operation, and since they had extra food on hand, they wanted to extend to us their hospitality. Rosa candidly told me that she was impressed that I am a "gringo" that spoke their language, seemed generally interested in their operation, and the country of Mexico, and that I seemed like a friendly, nice person. Although I tried to pay her for our delicious meal, she refused the payment.

Left: Restaurant Karlita relies on wood to keep its grills going, and this family member stokes this grill with another mesquite log. Right: This guy is taking a break from his cooking chores, but chances are he'll be busy later, judging from the grills behind him that he seems to be in charge of.

All I can say, is when you visit the small mountain town of Gómez-Farías, pay Restaurant Karlita a visit, as the Gómez family are some of the nicest people that you'll ever meet, and their molé will make you a deliver in the joys of cooking and the consumption of food, in general.

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