Visit to Gomez Frarias, high in the Sierra Madre mountains

The small town of Gómez-Farías is located high in the Sierra Madre Oriental mountain range, in the Mexican state of Tamulipas, and is probably best known as the gateway to the resort town of El Clielo, located high in the mountains, a 2-1/2 hour four wheel drive ride from Gómez-Farías. Our friend, Rodolfo Rincón had told Jerry and I about this place, and naturally, we had to pay the town a visit.

Left: This very patriotic welcomes you to the town of Gómez-Farías. Right: Looking into town from in front of the Gappy Bar. The street, Blvd. Benito Júarez, is lined with pickup truks, most with a horse trailer attatched.

Gómez-Farías is located south of CD. Victoria, off Federal Highway 85, but to reach the town, you'll have to turn south on a secondary, paved road, that immediately starts to climb into the Sierra Madre mountains. The green, almost-tropical vegetation begins to close in on the narrow, two-lane road, as it twists and turns up the mountains, toward Gómez-Farías , located high in the mountains at the 5000 foot level. The ride up the mountain affords spectacular views of the Chamal Valley, and the Chamal Colony, to the north. There isn't much road traffic, but you'd better drive with caution, as the road is very narrow, the curves are very sharp, and there aren't many places to pull over. Yes, those trees that look like banana trees and have fruit drooping from them that look like bananas, are in fact, real banana trees sporting real bananas. The scenery, the vegetation and the views are breathtaking!

After a climb of nearly 15 miles, we reached a huge arch, festooned with patriotic decorations, welcoming us the to town of Gómez-Farías. After passing through the arch, we noticed a couple of things: a) houses had started to appear on both sides of the road, and b) the road was now Blvd. Benito Júarez. Gee, that's not a surprise! We also noticed that many horse trailers were parked on each side of the street, and we wondered what was going on. After passing a overhead banner that welcomed us to the town, we realized what was happening, as we'd stumbled into town, as the town was celebrating it's 136th birthday, on Friday, September 29, 2006.

Left: Jerry and Rodolfo check out the sugarcane vendor. Right: Note the press that the sugarcane drink vendor uses to squeeze the juice out of the sugarcane. I found the grey-colored liquid to be too sweet and very unappealling to my taste buds.

You really haven't experienced a celebration unless you've had the opportunity to attend a celebration in a small town in Mexico. Everyone in the town is committed to the event, and everybody in town contributes and participates in the event, and the town birthday in Gómez-Farías was no exception. Being a fan of U.S. western history, I've read accounts and seen photographs of Fourth of July celebrations in western mining and cattle towns, and patriotic celebrations in small Mexican towns seem to follow the same protocol, albeit 100 years in the future. It seems that the town of Gómez-Farías had proclaimed the day a holiday, as most businesses, except for bars and restaurants were closed, streets were barricaded, schools were shuttered, and almost every citizen seemed to be near the town square, and in a holiday mood.

We parked the truck and headed near the town square, so we could get involved in the action. Besides the citizens milling around, there were the usual street vendors, selling everything from food to souvenirs. Jerry and Rodolfo took an immediate interest in a vendor that was selling a "bebida" made from sugarcane juice. I looked on in interest, at their operation, as they had a machine that pressed the sugar cane and extracted the juice from it, at their boot on the street. Jerry and Rodolfo each purchased a cup of the drink, and Jerry gave me a taste of his, but it was "sickly" sweet, and had a medium gray color which didn't appeal to me. Despite the fact that I can't turn down a taco de tripa, or anything else from a food vendor, the sugar cane drink didn't appeal to me.

Left: The bandstand and the town square are decked out in patriotic colors, and who could miss the large, obligatory statue of Benito Júarez? Right: The town hall is decked out for the occasion.

Like most Mexican towns, Gómez-Farías features a town square, with a bandstand in the center of the park. On this occasion, the bandstand was being used to showcase sample meals prepared by various organizations in the area, and the bandstand was lined with tables of folks showing off their fine offerings. The food reflected the local cuisine, and the preparations were stunning. Instead of looking, dreaming, and taking photos, I would have liked to sample some of their fine wares. As I wandered around the town square, drooling over the food and checking out the vendors, a boom box in the background played "Celito Lindo," "El Caballo Blanco," and other Mexican standards.

Left: This cowboy was riding his horse on the sidewalk, and turning circles in the street, and arroused the attention of the local police, as he appered to be "Riding horse under influence." Right: In their haste to question the alledged R.H.U.I. rider, the cops smashed the front of their truck into a parked truck. They got out to inspect the damage.

There were many men riding horses in the town, as there was supposed to be a parade down the main street of town, featuring local folks riding horses to honor the 136th birthday of the founding of the town. However the parade just never seemed to happen, as the riders seemed more interested in galloping down the main street, turning in circles, and waving their hats to the crowd. While all of this was happening, we were wandering around, taking photos, talking to the locals, and saying "no" to the many vendors.

Left: After a quick inspection of the parked truck, the cop inspected his truck. Satisfied there was no damage, the cops quickly lost interest in the drunk rider. Right: A citizen of Gómez-Farías has definitely drank too much tequilla, as he dances and shuffles down the main street. It wasn't even noon and this guy was totally out of it. The cops quickly found him a better place to call home.

As I was photographing the sugarcane juice vendor, I had the opportunity to witness an absolutely hilarious event, that occurred as the local policia made a huge mistake, and then did a total coverup, which was worthy to be portrayed in a Keystone Cops movie. As in many small Mexican towns, the municipal police drive pick-up trucks with camper shells on the back, which serve as paddy wagons. The cops had parked on a side street, on the south side of the town square, and were observing the parade of trucks pulling horse trailers down the main street, and the vaqueros riding horseback on the main street. One of the cops got into his truck, apparently bent on arresting a vaquero who was seriously weaving in the saddle; public drunkenness is seriously frowned upon in Mexico. It seems that the cop was so focused on the drunk that he plowed is pickup truck into another truck, that was stopped on Blvd. Benito Juarez, which was awaiting its turn to find a parking spot. So the cop got out of his truck, and first inspected his truck for damage, which it didn't seem to sustain. Then he an a buddy took a look at the truck that they'd hit, which as a early '80's model white Chevy truck, and concluded that the damage that they'd inflicted wasn't terminal. Then, they simply got into their truck and drove away! I couldn't believe what I'd seen, but I got the whole affair on my digital camera! Only in Gómez-Farías ...

Rodolfo suggested that we take a side detour to view the mountains, so we followed him to an observation post behind the city hall, where we could take in the spectacular sights of the Sierra Madre mountains, and look up at the ridge where the village of El Cielo is located. While taking photos and wandering around the place, we met a gentlemen by the name of Grady Snell, and some members of his family, and some of his employees. Grady approached me as I was taking photos of the mountains, and started up a conversation in English, which completely surprised me, as I'd left my English at the border. Soon, Jerry and Rodolfo joined in the conversation, and soon after that we became friends. Click on this hyperlink to revisit the Chamal Colony and the fantastic time we had at Grady's place. However, after all of this fine chit-chatting and observation of the festivities that Gómez-Areas had to offer, we were thirsty, and Grady knew where to go in town, as Gómez-Areas has only one bar in town, the Gappy Bar.

Left: Grady Snell admires local delicasies, with the smiling food judges in the background. Right: I was tempeted to "liberate" one of the delicious dishes when the judges weren't looking, but chose to photograph them instead.

When a guy like Grady invites you to a place like the Gappy Bar, you can't say no, especially when he includes his employees, and purchases you the first round. I offered seconds, but he declined, and his entourage left me at the bar, with the promise that I'd be at his place for dinner the next day. Ok, I as at the Gappy Bar, but click on the hyperlink to read about the bar...

Rodolfo and Jerry finally persuaded me to leave the bar, after a couple of hours and who-knows-how-many-rounds-of-Coronas-later, and to take a few photos of Rodolfo in his best local politician style. Later, we had the opportunity to sample the fine mole and other food offered at Restaurant Karlita, located near the town square in Gómez-Farías.

Left: Local citizens relax along the main street in town in anticipation of a parade that never happened. Right: Totally free-range chickens hunt for food near a trash can in the town square.

Gómez-Farías is a small Mexican town, located in the breathtakingly-green Sierra Madre mountains. If you like great mountain scenery, combined with small town atmosphere, a visit to Gómez-Areas should be penciled onto your calendar.

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