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Who is Coco, what is Coco's Corner, and where is it located? Who is Coco? ... not that's a difficult question to answer... but the what and where aren't quite as hard to answer.
Photo: First look at Coco's Corner, from about a mile away. Note the rock, in the lower left corner of the photo, that bears the painted word "Coco," no doubt painted by Coco, himself. During a trip to Baja California back in 2007, I'd noticed the sign on Highway 1, at Chapala, that pointed the way to Bahía San Luis Gonzada, and untimely San Felipe, and the mere sight of that sign started a chain reaction in my brain. At home, I surfed the Internet, and learned that the road from Chapala to Puertocitos had the reputation of being one of the worst major roads on the Baja California Peninsula, and not far from the highway, at a crucial road junction, was a place called Coco's Corner, run by the chief cook and bottlewasher, Coco himself. I read all about Coco's decorations, his campground, his hospitality, and combined with the terrible reputation of the road, I made up my mind to drive the road and pay Coco a visit, during my visit to Baja California in September and October, of 2008.
Photo: I'm parked in front of Coco's Corner, as I take a photo of the sign that welcomes the visitor to this man's paradise. Who, or should I say, what is Coco? Coco is an ex-crop duster pilot, jack of all trades, desert hermit, and entrepreneur, who has built Coco's Corner into what it is today: One man's idea of paradise, out in the middle of nowhere. Rumors have it that he carved his wooden leg all by himself, and by the looks of Coco's Corner, I can believe it. Unfortunately, during my visit on September 30, 2008, Coco wasn't home.
Photo: Coco's Corner, and the building that houses the café, from across the dirt/gravel road that leads to Gonzaga Bay. Coco's Corner features quite unique decorations, and I've read on the Internet that the place can be seen from space, which is no small wonder, as there is nothing else for many miles, and the fact that the place is decorated with hundreds, maybe even thousands of aluminum beer cans, hung everywhere, which tinkle in the breeze. Coco's corner is arranged around a fenced-in area which is almost like a town square, with his restaurant at one end, accommodations for his guests, which are orphaned camper shells, a shower room, and restrooms in the center of the compound. Junk, household items, a beached boat, cars, trucks, and even a couple of big rigs are scattered all over the area... Keep in mind that most of this is fenced in by a fence, made of cactus wood, that is decorated with aluminum beer cans.
Photo: The entrance to Coco's café is through the door, with the painted arrow, as you walk through Coco's decorated cactus garden. Note the graffiti painted on the rock in the foreground, and the toilets, used as planters for cactus. When you park in front of Coco's, you're treated to a sign that advertises his services, which include cold beer and sodas, camping, a café, and tourist information. The sign makes a point that Coco speaks English as well... You walk up to Coco's through a well-marked path, outlined with white, painted rocks, around a carefully cultivated cactus garden, that has a few derelict toilets used as decorative planters. You head up the walkway to the café, and you'll note that the cafe features outdoor dining, which is what dining is all about in this part of the country, due to the desert climate. As approach the patio, you're in for a real treat, as Coco has decorated his dining patio in a unique way. During my travels, I've seen shoe trees and underwear trees, but nothing like the garden that Coco nurtures under the cover of his patio. Coco has planted a garden of tee shirts, panties, briefs, bras, hats, shoes, and even motorcycle helmets on the overhead of his patio. Many of the undergarments are autographed, especially the women's panties, and many are inscribed with risqué, crude graffiti, which makes it all the more funny and entertaining. If the undergarments weren't enough, there is a huge variety of household and commercial junk piled everywhere, with such notable items as old TV sets, a teletype machine, and an IBM electric typewriter, which probably typed its last letter more than 30 years ago.
Photo: Another view of Coco's cactus garden, at the entrance to the café and campground. The "restaurant" building was locked, and the windows were boarded up, but I managed to peek inside and note that the place has fallen into disarray - if it ever was in order. Like the rest of Coco's Corner, the walls are decorated with posters, photos, business cards and memorabilia left behind from visitors, and the work area is cluttered with junk. Empty cans and cans of food are arranged haphazardly on the shelves, and everything is covered with dust and cobwebs. This appears to be the building that Coco uses for the restaurant, but there is no evidence of electricity, a refrigerator, a sink, or a stove... just a lot of dusty junk. By the way, it appears that Coco lives in one of the campers that are resting out back, near the decorated fence. Most of the decorations seem to be left behind by dirt bikers, as there are numerous references to dirt bikes scrawled on the shirts and underwear, dirt bike business-related business card tacked to the side of the building, signatures of dirt-bikers in the log book, and a few old dirt bike tires and helmets kicking around the place.
Photo: Coco's cactus garden, and one his toilets, that sports a cactus plant. The cover for the patio dining is in the middle background of the photo. Coco was absent, and my ambassador to his corner of the world was a very friendly, skinny cat, who seemed starved for attention, as she followed me everywhere, and purred enthusiastically when I petted her. I spent around an hour looking around Coco's Corner, taking photos and field notes. I was disappointed that Coco wasn't there, as not only had I read a lot about him on the Internet, but I'd asked a few people I'd met during my visit to Bahía Tortugas and Guerro Negro about Coco, and they'd never met him, but they'd heard about him, as he's a Baja legend, and well-known in this part of the country. Judging from what I could see, from the entries in the log book, the business cards, and just a "gut" feeling, it appeared that Coco had been away for several months.
Photo: Note the word "Coco" is spelled out in beer cans. The cans jingle when the wind blows. I was truly sorry that I didn't get to meet Coco, as I'd planned to stay overnight at his corner, and get as much information from him as I could, and write a complete article about Coco, the Baja California legend. During my planned overnight stay, I wanted not only to chat with Coco, but to explore Bahía Calamajué, on the Sea of Cortez, which is accessible from Coco's via a dirt road. I wished that I'd carried food to feed the cat, but then I though better of it, as the cat seemed to be doing ok, probably living on a diet of bugs, lizards and small rodents. I did find a dish and filled it full of water. Where the cat was getting water, I couldn't figure out, as I couldn't see any water, anywhere. Oh well, animals are smarter than human beings...
Photo: A close-up photo of a few of the thousands of beer cans that decorate Coco's Corner. Note how they're strung together, and decorate the cactus. The Sierra Club would have a fit, if they visited Coco's Corner... maybe I shouldn't publish this on the Internet after all? After I got home, I did a bit of web surfing, and learned that during the time frame of my visit, Coco was in Ensenada, as he was having medical issues, and needed to get his other leg amputated. Whether he returns to his little piece of paradise remains to be seen, but whatever the case, the author, and many other friend and fans wish him well, and look forward to his return. Coco's
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