Tamales de Margarita in Punta Banda, tamales cooked over a wood fire...

I was driving through the small town of Punta Banda, on my way back to Ensenada, and it was time for lunch. Being the adventurous sort of person that I am, I wanted to sample some of the local cusine. When I way local, I mean really local in that I wanted to stop at a roadside vendor stand. After negotiating a particularly mean speed bump, my nose picked up the smell of wood smoke. I looked to my right and noticed a small, roadside stand with several pots cooking over a wood fire. How could I resist this one? I didn't resist...

Left: Tamales de Margarita is very unpretentious. Right: Elena lifts the lid from one of the pots to show me a chicken-filled tamale.

Margarita operates a small, roadside stand in the town of Punta Banda, about halfway between Ensenada and the world-famous blowhole, La Bufadora. She sells several varieties of homemade tamales that she makes at the stand, and steams in large pots, heated over a wood fire, in front of her stand. She also sells jars of pickled vegetables, delicious homemade salsa, black and green olives. She has been in the same location for 16 years, and she makes a decent living by selling the food that the makes at the roadside stand.

Photos: How could you resist tamales, homemade and cooked over a wood fire? Margarita show me her handiwork. By the way, her tamales are good!

I parked my car, got out and walked to her stand. It's one of those semi-enclosed stands where the side that faces the road is completely open. I introduced myself to Margarita, the owner, and her friend Elena, who was visiting from the Los Angeles area. I asked what kind of tacos Margarita sold, as she doesn't have a sign that advertises her wares. She told me that she only sold tamales; that was ok with me! So, I purchased a pork tamale and a chicken tamale.

These aren't the sort of tamales that you see in "gringo" Mexican-style restaurants. Margarita's tamales are huge and biting into them is like opening up heaven's gate. Margarita obtains all of her ingredients from local farmers in the area, so you know everything is as fresh as it gets. She has a table inside her stand, where she cuts the meat, vegetables and stuffs and ties the tamales into corn husks. She grinds the corn kernels up using a mortar, and makes all of her masa dough for the tamales on the spot. She does everything herself by hand, the old fashioned way. You can't help but to admire a lady this creative!

Left: Elena and Margarita relax, as I take their photo. Note the canned salsa in the background. Right: Tamales are cooking over a wood fire, as Margarita and Elena relax in the background.

I think the part of her operation that intrigued me the most is her method of steaming the tamales: Over a wood fire. In front of her stand, she has a fireplace, built out of cinderblocks, with several large pots full of tamales cooking. She was pleased to show me the contents of each pot, more tamales.

In addition to tamales, Margarita sells homemade bottles salsa, pickled vegetables, black and green olives. Of course everything is made from fresh ingredients obtained locally. She does all of her canning using heat from the wood fire. If you've ever done any canning, you know how important it is to sterilize everything and how tricky it can be. It's hard enough using a gas range, but this lady does it outdoors over a wood fire.

Left: Margarita tends a pot of chicken tamales that are waiting for the next tour. Right: Elena is busy helping Margarita make salsa. She gave me a taste, and, of course I purchased a bottle of Margarita's salsa. I can verify for it, Margarita's salsa is good!

When I asked her more about her operation, she told me that she does a big business, as many tour buses like to stop on their way to and from La Bufadora. I sampled some of her pickled vegetables, olives and salsa, and couldn't resist purchasing some to take home with me. I asked Margarita what her secret is in making such delicious products and she answered in one word, "vinegre," or vinegar in English.

Both Margarita and Elena are outgoing, friendly ladies who will treat you like family. I hung around and chatted with them for the better part of an hour before I said farewell.

Left: Margarita is at the table where she prepares all of her fine food. Notice her hand-cranked meat grinder. She does everything by hand, and I had to tell her about the Internet. Right: The photo doesn't it justice, but you can see the size of one of Margarita's tamales.

Left: Margarita's pickled olives, veggies and salas are on display. Right: Margarita waits on customers as Elena looks on, ready to help as needed.

Oh yes, the tamales you ask? D-e-l-i-c-i-o-u-s. Huge. Fresh. Moist. Her tamales feature a nice, thick masa dough, very moist and tender. Oh the tamale filling is sooooo good! Both were delicious, but if I had to pick a favorite, I'd vote for the chicken, as simply put, I love chicken tamales. The price, you ask, for 2 tamales, a bottle of salsa and a bottle of pickled vegetables, plus samples of her olives? $40.00, which is just a little over three U.S. dollars.

Next time you're driving through Punta Banda, on your way to or from La Bufadora, stop by Tamales de Margarita, say "hola" to friendly Margarita, and have a delicious lunch. Your taste buds will be glad you did.

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