Running California's famous Rubicon Trail, in the El Dorado National Forest

The Rubicon Trail. Those three words will send any four-wheeling aficionado into a state of pure ecstasy, as the Rubicon Trail is definitely the most famous trail in California, and one of the most famous 4WD trails in the world. Everybody who hasn't run it wants to run it, and everybody who has run it can't wait to tackle it again. The Rubicon Trail has it all: Adventure, mud, water, rocks, hill-climbs, more rocks, granite slabs and breathtaking Sierra Nevada scenery. Not to mention, a whole bunch of eager four wheelers every weekend.

Left: Jonathan and Celeste prepare their camp for the night. Naturally, I slept in a small tent erected on the fringes of our camp. Right: The western staging area for the Rubicon Trail is at Loon Lake.

Saturday, June 26, 2004 found me waking up early, as the day started to dawn, in the shadows of the dam at Loon Lake, in California's El Dorado National Forest. I was camped out with my friends, the Dolan family; Jonathan, Celeste and their two small children, Everett and Marin. Jonathan and I had a mission that day: Run the Rubicon, while Celeste and the children were planning on visiting family friends in South Lake Tahoe.

We had come up the night before in the Dolan family's Durango, with Jonathan's Jeep in-tow and we camped at Loon Lake, as it is the western staging area for those who are running the Rubicon from west to east. By the way, at Loon Lake, I hear that the fishing is good, if that's your calling in life. Loon Lake is also a convenient place to camp for those en route to the Tahoe area.

After bidding our farewells to Celeste and the children, Jonathan and I set about the usual tasks in preparation for a day on a challenging trail: Loading trail essentials, airing down the tires and disconnecting the anti-sway bars. By 0700, we were ready to hit the trail.

Left: Jonathan removes the anti-sway bar to improve articulation. Right: I take my turn at airing down the tires to 15 p.s.i. to help us find more traction in the loose sections of the trail.

The Rubicon trail starts at the east end of the Loon Lake dam, near the spillway. As you cross the dam the trail takes off to the left, and descends down to a flat area near the base of the dam. This is the western staging area for the Rubicon and a popular place to camp before running the trail. The first thing one notices in the staging area is the amount of trucks with empty flatbed trailers behind them, testimony that many 4-wheelers prefer to tow their rig to the trail head. That's a good policy in case of a serious problem that can't be repaired on the trail or the staging area.

As you leave the staging area, the trail passes over a huge slab on granite and then meanders through the lodgepole pine forest for a quarter mile or so, until you come to the first obstacle: "Gatekeeper Hill."

Photos: Ohhh Baby! The "Gatekeeper" will introduce you to the Rubicon Trail in the first half mile after leaving Loon Lake. If you can't make "Gatekeeper" you'd better turn around and go home, and install those Detroit lockers that you'd always wanted to install on your truck, but never got around to it.

"Gatekeeper" consists of a series of tight turns and a short, yet very steep climb to the top of a small ridge. That doesn't sound too bad, except there are the rocks to consider. About the only thing that "Gatekeeper's" rocks have in common is that they're typical Sierra granite, other than that, you'll find them in almost every size and shape, and they just love to populate the trail. The trail is narrow, there is only one line to pick in most places, and there are no bypasses. We did relatively well until our forward progress came to a halt on a large rock; it seems we were high-centered on the oil pan of all things! After surveying the situation, out came the hi-lift jack to the rescue. However, that effort didn't last too long, as a guy named Andy, in an awesome Toyota truck, came along and offered to strap us over the obstacle. Hey, that's easier than jacking so we thankfully accepted his offer. After we got off the rock, we didn't have any problems 'wheeling up to the top of the ridge.

Left: Jonathan negotiates the rocks on "The Gatekeeper." Right: Getting strapped up Gatekeeper from Andy in his well-built Toyata truck, just as we were having trouble negotiating the last few feet, there came Andy. I'ts nice to have friends on the Rubicon!

The Rubicon Trail is one of the most popular four-wheeling destinations in the country, therefore it gets a lot of use, during the few months that it's open. The Forest Service and the Sierra Clubbers keep a watchful eye on the trail, as it is located in the watershed of the American River, which supplies much of the drinking water to the Sacramento area, and therefore is an area of critical environmental concern. Due to it's popularity, this trail comes under constant scrutiny from environmental groups, who would like nothing better than to close it to vehicular use. So, when you drive the trail, PLEASE stay on the trail and obey the "wilderness" signs that are posted. We don't want this trail closed!

After you gain the ridge from the "Gatekeeper" you come to a huge slab of granite and the trail seems to disappear. You need to look closely in order to follow the trail: It is marked by rock cairns, tire prints and, unfortunately, spilled automotive fluid. However don't worry if you can't find the trail, just keep heading in an easterly direction and you'll pick it up as you gain the ridge, with a fantastic view of Loon Lake behind you, and Spider Lake to your east. This granite slab area is a popular place to camp, as we noticed quite a few happy campers. As it was still quite early in the morning, most of the campers were just started in the day's activities.

Left: After conquering "The Gatekeeper," (with help from friends) we take a breather, well if you want to consider climb up a steep, granite hill a breather... Right: The slab of granite is rough, and has some off-camber sections.

After crossing the granite slab, the trail drops down into a forested valley and a couple of small streams are crossed. This is another area that is popular with campers; as we passed various campsites, we could smell the bacon and eggs cooking and the coffee perking. No such luxuries for us!

After passing a small pond at the east end of the valley, the trail then starts to climb another hill known as "Locker Hill." Like the "Gatekeeper," this hill is steep and boulder-infested. There are also numerous drop-offs and off-camber sections that give the passenger something to ponder as he looks at the forest and valley below. "Locker Hill" seems to skirt Spider Lake, another popular place to camp. If you care to camp at Spider Lake, there are many trails that take off from the mail trail that will lead you there. Like Loon Lake, I'm told that the fishing is decent at Spider Lake, as it is stocked with trout on a regular basis. Despite the fact that Jonathan's Jeep is open, we didn't have any trouble with "Locker Hill."

Left: I can't resist getting my picture taken as we make a photo stop on " "Locker Hill." Right: Jonathan can't resist having his photo taken at the same place.

About 2 miles or so east of "Locker Hill" the trail comes to a fork. Unless you're very brave, foolhardy, or both, take the left fork and it will soon lead to another huge slab of granite. If you take the right fork, the trail will lead you to the infamous "Little Sluice," a Class-5+ rock garden.

A word about the difficulty of the Rubicon Trail: All of the main trail is at least Class-4, with some of the "optional" routes, like "Little Sluice" could be rated a 5 or even a 6. The rock placement changes every day, so if you're lucky, you'll hit the trail on a "Class-4" day, but if you're not so lucky, the equation can change dramatically. Jonathan's Jeep is open, and we made the trail ok, however we were "strapped" three times, and several other times took some "trail engineering" and "creative manoeuvring." When you 'wheel the Rubicon, you'll find that the vehicles of choice are: Jeeps, Toyota trucks, early Broncos and FJ-40 Landcrusers. We did see a couple of full-size Blazers, but the infamous rocks of the Rubicon had taken their toll on the sheet metal. When you're on the Rubicon, be forewarned that this is a world-class trail and you, and your vehicle need to be prepared.

As you approach "Little Sluice," the left fork of the trail will lead you to another slab of granite which is also a popular place to camp, due to the fact that with a bit of hiking, you can overlook "Little Sluice" and watch the trucks that are trying to negotiate this obstacle. "Little Sluice" is a steep, narrow, v-notch, that features immense boulders which look impossible for any vehicle to climb. But many try to negotiate this thing and a few succeed. Like any other infamous obstacle, "Little Sluice" attracts a crowd of onlookers who encourage, support, jeer and cheer the vehicle attempting to traverse this formidable section of trail. We had the pleasure of watching a guy in a well-built Toyota truck negotiate the thing with little trouble. However, I can remember a trip that we took to this area in the year 2001 where a truck rolled in attempting this obstacle and another suffered damage so serious that he had to be strapped back to the staging area. This is a world-class, Class-6 obstacle!

Left: Onlookers cheer and jeer as a well-built Toyota truck attempts "Little Sluice." Right: "Little Sluice" is a Class-5+ obstacle! These guys completed "Little Sluice" successfully, without any damage to their truck.

After rejoining the main trail, we headed into another forested valley where we noticed a family camping that appeared to include three generations. A wonderful thing about the sport of four-wheeling in that it can be enjoyed by anyone, at any age.

A small pond suddenly appears on your right. Since we noticed another group of trucks approaching, we elected to take a section of the trail that featured a water crossing. Coming out of the water, there was a small, slick, hill of loose dirt and rocks that had to be climbed. Due to the looseness and slickness, not to mention the fact that we don't have lockers, we got high centered on a large boulder. Out came the hi-lift and we started jacking, until another four-wheeler came by in an early Bronco and offered to strap us out. We gratefully agreed his kind offer, as strapping is easier than jacking.

Left: Time to get out the Hi-Lift jack. Right: We gratefully accepted a tug.

The trail then meanders up and down over many granite ridges, with the forest alternating between a lodgepole pine dominated forest, to a red fir/Douglas fir dominated forest. We were speculating on why certain trees grow where; I came up with the idea of the type of soil and the exposure to sunlight. It has been a couple of years since I took Botany in college.

Soon, after topping a granite ridge, you are treated to a wonderful view of Buck Island Lake. The trail winds down a forested draw and soon, before you know it, there's an easy water crossing and then you're wheeling across the concrete dam the forms the man-made lake.

A concrete dam? A man-made lake, miles from any easy access for construction material? For what purpose? In an area only accessible by highly-modified 4WD vehicles, pack trains and helicopters? The dam's construction didn't reveal when it was built, but I later found out that it acts as a holding reservoir for Loon Lake. But, whatever the purpose of the reservoir, the area is pretty and there are many fantastic places to camp around the lake. Jonathan and I sat on a boulder, overlooking the lake, and ate a lunch of deli sandwiches, and enjoyed the view.

After leaving the Buck Island Lake basin, the trail climbs another forested ridge, and then descends into a steep, boulder-strewn, forested canyon for what seems like it goes on forever, but that's the only way to rustic resort of Rubicon Springs. This section of the trail is not particularly interesting, but is it steep, narrow and extremely rough. You need to be constantly looking for trucks heading uphill and you need to watch for the few places you find that will allow you to pull over, if you meet an "uphill" vehicle. Remember, "uphill" vehicles have the right-of-way and if you're traveling this stretch of trail downhill (eastbound,) then it's your responsibility to yield the right-of-way.

Left: Relaxing at Buck Island Lake. Right: The climb out of Buck Island Lake.

We'd four-wheeled down this section of trail for a couple of miles, when we caught up with a group of 10 or so vehicles heading our direction, so we simply blended in and joined the group. When we were almost to the bottom of the canyon, and could barely see Rubicon Creek, we met a group of ATV enthusiasts heading eastbound on the trail. Camaraderie is supreme on the trail, whether the vehicle of choice is a Jeep, ATV, motorcycle, or mountain bike. The ATV guys informed us that there were a bunch of Jeeps heading our way and that we'd be wise to stay put. So we all found places to park and got out to observe the action and get to know each other.

On the Rubicon, nobody is in a hurry. Part of the "experience" is waiting for other folks to do their thing. When you're on the Rubicon, you're all "trail" brothers and sisters and everybody treats everybody else that way. So if you have to wait, you just wait and you have a great opportunity to get to know the folks around you better.

There were a group of several Jeeps heading uphill and most of them were having trouble with a hard spot in the trail, that had a couple of boulders to climb over. Many of us pitched in to help, doing chores like spotting, "trail-engineering" and lending a bit of human horsepower for a push. After a wait of about 45 minutes, we were ready to leave.

Well, almost ready. We'd gone maybe 1/4 mile when we met another group heading uphill. These guys weren't your average Jeepers, even for the Rubicon; these guys were BUILT! I think the leader wanted to demonstrate to us his bravado, as he decided to turn the group around and regroup at Rubicon Springs campground, since it was only 1/4 mile or so down the trail. So the whole group turned around so we could continue on our way. Such is the camaraderie on the Rubicon.

Left: Well-built rig owners discuss the trail. Notice the red vehicle has a sack to hold trash. Many 'wheelers on the Rubicon will stop and pick up litter, left by careless users, and pack it out and dispose of it properly. Right: Almost all rigs had grouble at this spot, despite the fact that it's only about 1/4 mile west of Rubicon Springs Campground.

While the group we had joined were regrouping and preparing to get started, Jonathan and I decided to strike out on our own again. Soon, we crossed Rubicon Creek on a very unique one-lane bridge and entered the rustic resort area known as Rubicon Springs. Before entering the resort proper, there are a couple of rather deep water crossings, one of which has a go-around on a small hill that skirts the creek. We elected to take that route, as the water looked sort of "iffy" and Jonathan's Jeep isn't really set up for crossing water deeper than the rocker panels.

At the resort, they have a very popular campground catering to four-wheelers, situated along the creek but with few comforts or amenities: Primitive pit toilets and picnic tables, and that's about it. However, there is a lot going on at the resort, as upon occasion, they have dances, games and food. We heard this evening they were planning to serve for dinner a hog that had been roasted in a pit for many hours.

After leaving Rubicon Springs, the trail meanders through the forest, keeping in sight of the creek just to your north. There are numerous places to get out and picnic, relax or play in the water. We saw quite a few families in the area relaxing and enjoying the spectacular Sierra scenery; we assumed they were camping at the campground. We noted the only people who seemed to be splashing in the creek were young children, no wonder, as all you have to do is look at the mountains surrounding the small valley and noticed that there is still snow at the higher elevations. We assumed the water was somewhat chilly!

The last obstacle is the infamous "Cadillac Hill," named for an old Cadillac that was found at the summit of the hill many years ago. At the base of the hill is a small cemetery, with humans buried there as well as pets.

OK, now it was time to climb "Cadillac Hill." From the cemetery to the summit of the hill, it is about a mile of sometimes loose dirt, many boulders, very steep grades and off-camber sections. You could call it vehicle hell, or driver pleasure, whichever seems to feel right at the moment. We didn't have any trouble going up the hill, as Jonathan and I are a well-practiced driver/spotter team. We've 'wheeled together so many times that we seem to have developed a connection in regards to reading the trail.

At the top of "Cadillac Hill," there is a large flat spot that affords a breathtaking view of the of the area that we'd just crossed. We got out to admire the view and power down a soft drink and just unwind from the strenuous drive up " Cadillac Hill" Jonathan planted a geocache in this area, as he goes up here all of the time and will be able to maintain it. This is a true example of "multi-tasking," the combining of two awesome hobbies.

After a nice break, it only took a few minutes to reach the actual summit. Then, it was downhill for a bit, until the trail sort of leveled off as we wheeled through a stately Douglas fir forest.

Soon there was a stream crossing and then the trail came to a fork. This was a rather interesting situation, as the left fork appeared to traverse a bottomless mud pit, but the right fork featured deep ruts, we're talking at least 12 inches, but looked like it had been traveled by other vehicles quite recently. We sat and talked it over: Jonathan wanted to go left and I wanted to go right. My reasoning was that there were tracks to the right, but we couldn't see anything to the left, so that meant that everyone had gone to the right and got through. For some reason Jonathan listened to me and we went to the right. We had gone, maybe 20 feet, when we came to a sloshing halt: Stuck!

I got out to take a look at the situation and this is what I saw: The diffs, skid plates and even the oil pan were high centered in the mud, and the tires were just churning up surface mud. We were stuck; no doubt about it.

However, we were on the Rubicon, which is one of the most popular Jeep trails in the country. So it was only a matter of waiting a couple of minutes for another group to catch up with us. The lead Jeep was pulling another Jeep, a flat-fender that was experiencing severe carburetor problems, and they asked us to feel the mud with a stick on the left fork of the trail, as they could see that we were stuck after attempting the right fork. Why didn't we think of that before we took the "plunge?" Let's see, how many years have we been four-wheeling? Well the "bottomless mud pit" turned out to be about three inches deep, so the lead Jeep dragged his broken-down buddy across it without any trouble. Gee, did we feel stupid!

The third guy in the group, driving a white FJ-40, pulled about 20 feet behind us, and Jonathan attached his jerk strap to the Jeep and we were pulled out backwards in a matter of seconds. Let's see, that was the third time we were strapped on this trip. Oh well, that 's the Rubicon!

Left: Stuck and high-centered in the mud. Right: Jonathan gets strapped-out backwards from the mud.

After leaving the mudhole, the trail immediately improves to Class-3, which seems almost like a freeway, considering that we'd been bouncing around on mostly a Class-4 trail for the last several hours.

We followed our new-found friends for a few minutes, until they came to a hard spot in the trail where the lead Jeep was having a little trouble pulling his buddy through this spot. While we were waiting, we were attacked by hundreds of hungry mosquitoes. Of course we'd forgotten to bring mosquito repellent. Note: Always bring mosquito repellent when you're in the Sierras! The gal ahead of us could see our plight, so she sent her hubby to our rescue with a can of mosquito repellent. We profusely thanked them for their kindness. This is just another example of camaraderie on the trail, practiced by four-wheelers.

Soon, the trail becomes a mostly Class-1 road, with some Class-2 sections thrown in just for fun. As you're driving east, you pass several lakes that are overgrown with lily pads and reeds; destined to become meadows in a century or so. Perhaps the prettiest lake we passed was Miller Lake, a popular destination for the SUV, picnicking and fishing crowd.

We stopped at the staging area known as McKinney-Rubicon OHV staging area, to re-attach the anti-sway bar and air-up the tires. This is the eastern beginning of the Rubicon Trail, as the amount of empty tandem, flat-bed trailers pulled by pick-up trucks attested to, not to mention the amount of 4-wheelers doing the same thing as we were doing.

Photos: The McKinney/Rubicon OHV staging area at the east end of the Rubicon Trail.

From the staging area at Loon Lake to the staging area at McKinney/Rubicon OHV, we logged 15.1 miles on our odometer. Including all of the stops we made, it took us about 10 hours to travel that distance.

After we hit the pavement, we drove south on CA 89, where I dropped Jonathan off at his friends' place at South Lake Tahoe, where he was reunited with his family and his Durango. I drove his Jeep to his place, where I picked up my Camry and drove home.

In retrospect, I can see why the Rubicon Trail is such a popular trail. It has everything that a four-wheeler could wish for: Obstacles from easy to impossible, water crossings, rock-crawling, steep grades, off-camber sections, hill climbs and some of the most awesome scenery the Sierra Nevada has to offer. Plus, its just the right length, in that it can be completed in a day, or it can be stretched out much longer, as there are unlimited camping spots along the trail. Truly, the Rubicon is everything a four-wheeler could wish for.

Make no doubt about it, your truck must be ready for the most difficult trail conditions imaginable to drive the Rubicon. Like us, you can do it with open differentials, but a lift, oversize tires and good skid plates are a must. If you get stuck, like we did, you can pretty much count on someone coming by who will be happy to strap you out of your predicament. A winch would be invaluable, but whatever you do, don't leave that High-Lift jack at home!

When you drive the Rubicon, please make sure to clean up after yourself, and maybe pick up that can or bottle that somebody else carelessly left behind. The radical environmentalists are looking for any possible excuse to close this trail, so to keep it open for our children and grandchildren, we must TREAD LIGHTLY! at all times.

Happy trails to you!

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